Garage tools compared: fuel type matters more than price

What to take away

The four power sources, and the machines that define them

Corded electric tools run at constant output and carry no battery weight. A Makita 5007MG circular saw and a Bosch 1617EVS router are the two most common corded anchors in a home shop, and both run all afternoon on a 15A circuit.

The saw typically lists for $170 to $200 and the router for $190 to $230, as of 2026. Used corded tools carry the same motor and no battery risk, so they are the safer second-hand buy.

Cordless tools trade output for freedom of movement. Milwaukee's M18 and DeWalt's 20V MAX are the two largest battery platforms in North America, and Makita's LXT is the third. Brushless motors cost more up front and run longer per charge than brushed ones.

Bare drill bodies on those platforms typically run $100 to $150, and a 5.0Ah pack another $80 to $130. Milwaukee launched M18 in 2008 and DeWalt followed with 20V MAX in 2011, so used bodies and packs are common on both.

Pneumatic tools are light in the hand and cheap to buy. A Bostitch framing nailer and an Ingersoll Rand 231C impact wrench are the usual first two, and both need a compressor that can hold pressure, not just fill a tank.

The 231C typically sells for $130 to $180. The 20-gallon vertical compressor behind it usually costs $350 to $600, so the compressor is the real entry price for air.

Fuel powered tools make their own power. Chainsaws, string trimmers and generators belong here, and none of them belong indoors.

A Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss lists near $400 to $480 with an 18-inch bar. An Echo SRM-225 trimmer runs $200 to $240, and a Honda EU2200i generator sits near $1,100.

Where the safety rules actually differ

The federal standard for power-operated hand tools treats these categories separately. Electric tools must be grounded or double insulated. Pneumatic tools must be secured to the hose so they cannot pop off, and percussion tools need safety clips.

Fuel tools must be shut down before refueling, and the standard directs that ventilation be considered whenever they run in an enclosed space. Those duties fall on employers, not on a homeowner, but read as a buying filter they still work.

The compressed air trap

Sooner or later every compressor owner points the nozzle at a machine or a shirt. The rule on hand and portable powered tools restricts compressed air for cleaning and requires chip guarding and eye protection when it is used.

Air drives grit into bearings and motor windings, and it lifts the fine dust you were trying to remove back into the air you breathe. Use a vacuum and a brush. Keep the air line for tools and tires.

What to buy in what order

Splitting across battery platforms is the most common money leak in a home shop. Pick one and stay on it until a real capability gap forces a change.

Our garage shortlist covers the room these tools live in. The beginner kit guide covers the hand tools that come before any of them.

Common questions

Is cordless powerful enough for real work?

For drilling, driving, sanding and most crosscuts, yes. Long continuous runs, like ripping sheet goods or running a router for an hour, still favor corded.

Do I need a compressor?

Only if you are fastening a lot, spraying finish, or already own pneumatic tools. It is a poor first purchase because the compressor, hose and fittings cost more than the tools they drive.

Are second-hand power tools worth it?

Often, for corded tools and bare cordless bodies. Used batteries are the part to be wary of, since capacity fades with cycles and storage heat.

Can I run a fuel-powered tool with the garage door open?

No. Exhaust builds up faster than an open door clears it, and an attached garage shares that air with the house. Run fuel tools outside, away from doors and windows.